Jean-Marie Le Pen is on holiday. The veteran French far right-wing leader is taking a final break before the gruelling political marathon he hopes will take him, if not into the Elysee Palace, at least into the second round of the presidential elections next spring.
In his absence it is his daughter, Marine, 38, who is the face of the party. At her office in the Front National (FN) headquarters in the west Paris suburb of St Cloud, Marine Le Pen explained the idea behind the new, controversial poster campaign launched last week, which, for the first time, does not highlight the beefy features of her father, but features a woman of apparent immigrant origin.
'For 30 years we have defended the interests of the French people, where ever they come from, whatever their race or religion,' she said. 'The idea of the posters is to put the French people in the foreground, not the candidate. We want to give them back the voice they have been denied by the political elite.'
The strategy is working. Poll results published in Le Monde late last week showed the FN at its highest levels of support for years, even better than in the run-up to the 2002 election where it polled 18 per cent and went through to the two-candidate run-off of the second round. In 1997 nearly half of French people saw Le Pen's ideas as unacceptable; now only a third do. 'People are getting used to Le Pen and his ideas. They are becoming banal,' said Emmanuel Riviere, of pollsters TNS Sofres. Marine says this is only natural: 'People are only surprised because we have been caricatured for so many years. Now they are learning the truth. We have been seen as the devil for too long.' Truth for some, cynical marketing exercise for others. 'In France, we have a vulgar expression that you can't paint merde,' Le Pen, the youngest of former paratrooper Jean-Marie's three daughters, said. She was referring to the efforts of what she called political elites to 'cover up' the state of France's economic and social problems. Yet her phrase could equally be applied, critics say, to the FN itself.
Marine Le Pen is at the spearhead of a radical attempt to change the image of her party. A 300-page autobiography Against the Flow, appearances in French media, a diet, a personal makeover as well as a new 'moderate' language have all led to new prominence for the former lawyer, divorcee and mother of three children. Her father is 78, contesting his sixth election, and everyone is aware that the time to pass the torch is not far away. Marine Le Pen is now, despite opposition from within the party and despite her own denials, best placed for the succession.
'All extremist parties have a problem with what to do when the chief goes,' said Frederic Dabi, public opinion expert at pollsters Ifop. 'Marine Le Pen has built herself a popular base that is far from negligible.'
A new chapter in the Le Pen family saga is opening. For it is indeed a saga - or a soap opera, according to critics. 'There is a real Dallas side to that family,' said Lorrain de Saint-Affrique, a former public relations adviser to the FN. 'The members detest each other but always reconcile their differences in the end.'
Le Pen, his second wife, two of his daughters - including Marine - and their children share a mansion and five-hectare estate near the FN office. Daughter Marie-Caroline was ostracised from the party and the family when the FN split in the late 1990s, and she sided with her father's rival. Now she has returned, more or less, to the fold. Relations between Marine and her father have not always been straightforward either.
'Like any family we have had our difficulties but we sort them out,' she told The Observer. 'The attacks against us have made us very close. There have been bombs; the divorce of my parents was all over the media.
'As a child, at school, I was the daughter of the devil for many. But we are a tribe and we stick together.' Always a very physical presence in French politics, the 'grandfather' of the European far right is toning down his rhetoric, taking care to avoid slip-ups such as his infamous dismissal of Nazi gas chambers as 'a detail of history,' a description of the German occupation of France as 'relatively humane', or a complaint before the 1998 World Cup that the French football team was not white enough.
And though their in-house literature makes much of it, the continuing trial of the FN's delegate general for Holocaust denial does not feature in public statements by Le Pen or his daughter either. Instead, as well as less talk about the 'immigration torrent' or 'France for the French', there are many pronouncements about the failure of the 'auto-proclaimed political-media elite' to represent honest, ordinary Frenchmen and women, of the failure of French democracy, of the collapse of French schools and other institutions, and of the two greatest bogeymen now inhabiting the French popular political landscape - threats of globalisation and 'Anglo Saxon' ultra-liberal economic systems.
'The most revealing statistic in recent months was a poll that showed that half of French people believe they could end up as homeless on the street.
'That is the depth of the anxiety of our compatriots,' Marine Le Pen said. 'The French people are asking themselves if there is an alternative to the traditional parties. And that is our chance.' The problem for the FN in the wake of the 2002 elections was that, though it had polled more than five million votes, it failed to break into the mainstream. With no MPs or even mayors, it has no formal presence in the French political system.
'They saw that they were stuck on around 20 per cent of the vote,' said Jean-Yves Camus, author of Extremism in France. 'From then on, they knew that they needed to find new themes and an image that would allow them to reach out to new voters.'
Some of those new voters are coming from surprising directions. One controversial visitor at a recent Le Pen rally was a comic whose 'jokes' about Jews have provoked a series of legal actions. Radical fringe elements claiming to represent popular sentiment in the poor suburbs around Paris have also expressed support for 'the new Front National'.
But that does not mean that the new strategy is working, at least not yet. 'Our surveys show that France is not a more xenophobic or more intolerant place than it was a year ago. And women are particularly resistant to Le Pen,' said Riviere. Analysts also point out that a vote for a Le Pen is very often a protest vote. 'The majority of voters who vote FN do not actually want to see Le Pen in the Elysee palace,' said Pascal Perrineau, director of political research at Sciences-Polytechnic University in Paris.
A key test will be the success or failure of Le Pen to gather the 500 mayoral signatures he needs to stand in a presidential election. At the moment, the FN is struggling to secure firm promises from mayors not yet convinced that the new image of the party will protect them from a grassroots backlash.
Marine Le Pen blames the 'manipulation' of the process by the political establishment. This is another example of France's 'dysfunctional democracy,' she says.
The younger Le Pen is proud of having organised the launch of the party's 2007 election campaign with a rally at Valmy, the revolutionary battlefield where the rag-tag footsoldiers of the young French Republic were victorious against all odds against their monarchic foreign enemies in 1792. In the end, it is at the lowest, individual level, where moral and motivation and ideas count most, that campaigns, military or political, are won or lost. The devil is in the detail.
Who's that girl?
With her pierced lip, low-cut jeans and, according to the Front National leaders, 'immigrant origins', she has caused a media stir.
From the party that had complained viciously about immigrants for 30 years - and whose words had been translated into action by some people - the poster appears to be a major shift. In front of the words nationality, assimilation, social mobility and the secular state, each a traditional value of the French Republic, appears the slogan: 'The right and the left have ruined everything.'
Party officials are coy over the exact identity of the girl shown in the poster, admitting that she is neither a front activist nor a member and saying only that she agreed to pose for the campaign and was - like the far more typical figures who posed in the other posters - promised anonymity.
The other images for the campaign are closer to those traditionally associated with Le Pen and the Front National. A teenager in front of the words 'school, identity, future'. A middle-aged woman clutching a dog, before 'retirement, social security, protection'.
'You vote for Le Pen like you choose a brand,' said Dominique Reynie, a political scientist. 'It's always the same promise: a political earthquake.'